Restaurateurs mixed on Michelin Guide coming to Quebec

Article content

The renowned Michelin Guide has chosen the province of Quebec as its third Canadian destination, and Montreal restaurateurs aren’t sure what to think.

“It’s exciting in a lot of ways,” said Marc Cohen, chef and co-owner of Larry’s, on St-Laurent Blvd. “Presumably, some restaurants getting recognition from what a lot of people think is the definitive word on restaurants is good for the city; and it’s good for the restaurants that get it.”

Article content

Most chefs, whether they admit it or not, want a Michelin star, Cohen says.

“We all pretend we don’t care, but you do. At the same time, the danger is it becomes all about that. Restaurants then start setting up just to cater to what they think the Michelin inspectors want. But there are many excellent restaurants that won’t win a star, for whatever reason.”

Montreal has a great food culture, according to Cohen, with many independent restaurants making food with a lot of personality.

“I hope we don’t lose that individuality,” he said.

Foodies can expect the first selections in 2025, featuring “culinary gems throughout the province,” Michelin said Thursday.

“I look forward to revealing what my famously anonymous inspectors discover for the inaugural selection,” Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guides, said in a statement. “Quebec’s culinary scene shines a light on the rich heritage and traditions of the province, attracting travellers on the lookout for remarkable and tasty experiences.”

The announcement notes Quebec’s “rich and diverse” food scene, its farm-to-table dishes and its top and up-and-coming chefs.

Article content

Article content

Cities must contribute money to help finance a visit from the Michelin Guide, the Quebec edition of which was made possible by a partnership between the Alliance de l’industrie touristique du Québec, Tourism Montreal, the City of Montreal, Destination Québec cité, and Quebec City, each of which contributed funds.

“It is with immense pride that all of our partners welcome the arrival of the Michelin Guide across the province of Quebec, which will further showcase our local artisans on the international stage,” Geneviève Cantin, CEO of the Alliance de l’industrie touristique du Québec, said in a statement.

Vanya Filipovic is taking a philosophical approach to the Michelin Guide visit to Quebec.

“It’s coming, so whatever we think doesn’t matter much,” said the co-owner of Vin Mon Lapin, which has topped Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants for two years straight. While such praise is nice, it doesn’t make her crave a visit from Michelin.

“We are small, neighbourhood restaurant,” Filipovic said. “We honestly can’t even believe the recognition we’ve had thus far. It’s all very surreal. It’s never been something we aspire to. We really like to remain cosy and neighbourhoody.

Article content

Filipovic would not venture a guess as to whether Vin Mon Lapin might obtain a Michelin star.

“Who knows?” she said. “We’re not looking for that, definitely not. We’re looking to stay true to our roots as a Little Italy restaurant. That’s it.”

Fred Morin, co-owner of Montreal’s Joe Beef, doesn’t think the Michelin guide’s arrival will magically transform Quebec’s restaurant scene, but said it will likely enhance the notoriety of eateries that are already in the spotlight.

“I don’t know if it’s good,” he said. “I feel divided. Now, especially with the ratings offered by the public (on other online sites), I think that’s the most precise expression of popular opinion. I’ve heard from a lot of people who run and operate restaurants in the Michelin system that they wish they never started that race.”

While he wouldn’t be unhappy to get attention from the Michelin Guide, Morin remains cautious about what might follow.

“Life is less complicated without the Michelin Guide,” he said. “Hopefully it’s not going to be too complicated with it.”

For a long time, Lesley Chesterman thought the Michelin Guide might never come to Quebec. But when Michelin descended on Toronto and Vancouver, the former Gazette fine dining critic knew it was only a matter of time. She is encouraged that restaurants across the province will be featured, not just the big cities.

“That’s the best part of the news,” Chesterman said. “People talk about it costing $2.1 million over three years. That’s a huge expense. Nobody else could do it. People are saying, ‘Why is the Quebec government paying Michelin Guide to come? But gastronomical tourism is a growing world. It will be good for Montrealers to know the good restaurants in Quebec, but it’s more for the tourists.”

The Michelin Guide is now the standard worldwide, Chesterman explained. “Before, it was pretentious, elitist. Now it’s more accepted.”

She doesn’t think there are many — if any — Michelin three-star restaurants in Quebec. “One star, for sure, but I don’t think there are 20 of them either. Maybe a handful.”

That said, she believes those single stars will be celebrated by chefs. “A Michelin star is now a badge of honour,” she said. “It means you’re doing things well.”

Article content

Article content